Contrasts & a note on graft

10.01.2003

The Prado was blocked again today. This time, however, by a procession celebrating Women's Day & Literacy Day. Groups of women in ethnic costume danced by the Prado streets, while brass bands played carnaval tunes (I'll post a picture soon). A marked contrast from the COB marchers on the other side of the boulevard.

Also, I'm finally close to finishing my residency registry (registro domiciliario) w/ the PTJ (Technical Judiciary Police). It's taken me eight trips to and from their headquarters, each time to get another form or another photocopy. In the end, I needed: photocopies of my passport (including the page of my last entry into the country), a letter from my renter & photocopies of her ID, signed affidavits from two witnesses & photocopies of their IDs to the affect that I live where I say I live, photocopies of the deed, the electric bill, the phone bill, a letter written & stamped by a lawyer officially requesting recognition of my residency status, and a form (cost Bs.13).

I finally got all the paperwork in order. I need this paperwork in order to then start my paperwork for my residency visa through the US embassy. I was sent in to see a certain sargeant, who's job it was to verify my residency. He sat in a dank room, surrounded by piles of paperwork. I handed him my papers, he looked them over, asked me a few questions. Then, he stated that he'd have to go and verify my residency.

"Sure, go ahead" I told him.

Then he vaguely asked something about how we'd arrange the transport to and from the apartment. Like, should I pick him up?

I knew where this was going. So I chose to play dumb. "I don't know what this process is like."

He looked perplexed, I was going to force him to spell it out. Apparently, there's a special stamp that needs to be placed on this paper, he's doing me a favor, etc.

"Yes, you can verify my residency any time you want."

Finally, he just said it. "You need to pay for my transportation."

I kept playing along. "Oh, how much is that fee? I don't know what the requirements are."

So here it comes: "It's for you to tell me."

So I took him at his word. "Well, it's never cost me more than Bs.10 (about $1.30) to round trip from here in a taxi."

He didn't look happy w/ this. Mulled it over in his head. "Make it Bs.20."

In the end, he didn't even "require" my presence at my apartment when he comes. I'm sure he won't even bother going. I saw him put the money right into his pocket (and I wasn't going to push my luck by asking for a receipt!). So there you have it, after all my paperwork, it came down to me handing over Bs.20 to a cop to get my residency status squared away. I'm supposed to pick up my forms tomorrow afternoon, after the sargeant has "verified" my residency.

Posted by Miguel at 11:09 AM

Comments

Got to love the "unofficial" fees when trying to do anything with the goverment there. fun...

Posted by: sam at October 1, 2003 11:28 AM

I'm sure its nothing that the Better business borough can't clear up. call them.

Posted by: bil at October 1, 2003 12:57 PM

Nice, I was waiting for one of these stories to pop up. Everything is official in Bolivia ....

Posted by: Andres at October 1, 2003 02:27 PM

That wasn't a lot to pay for the 'favor' (call it gratuity fee), and he left it for you to name the sum.

Posted by: steph at October 1, 2003 11:27 PM

Looks like you do not like much Bolivia, do not suffer in that ugly country, just get your ticket and fuck off.

Posted by: Jose L. Hernandez at December 28, 2003 11:49 PM

Actually, overall, I do enjoy Bolivia. There are things I don't like about it; just as there are things I don't like about the US (where I live). I certainly would never tell my birth country to "fuck off" as you so eloquently put it.

Posted by: Miguel at December 29, 2003 12:17 PM