Weird normality

10.16.2003

I just took a morning stroll through San Miguel and Calacoto. At least one cyber café in San Miguel's open, so's the Punto Entel (which also has internet). Ice cream parlors and cafés are open (at least Dumbo's, Café Alexander, and Café Terraza). There's traffic in the streets, people milling about, and caseras opening to sell things. And there's also a significant military presence on Calle 21, including a small tank (more of an armored assault vehicle, really).

The government's been flying food supplies into the city, and doing what it can to distribute it. Of course, the neighborhoods that are most calm (no protests, certainly none violent) are the easiest places to deliver to. So those of us who're probably least affected by the mob protests, are now even least affected. At most, we're nervously inconvenienced.

The tragedy's that both sides, the syndicate dirigentes and the government both know who're the real losers in this conflict. The rural and (especially) urban poor. The looting in El Alto's nearly destroyed their small market economy; the dirigentes are more and more reverting to intimidation to keep the protesters going. Every day their numbers seem to dwindle. This makes sense, most would rather search for food or other basic necessities for their families (a difficult project since businesses that open their doors in popular neighborhoods are looted, their owners "punished") than protest.

A line of protesters passed down the Avenida Ballivian a few minutes ago. They were fewer than in the past days, though they still carried their signature sticks (often used to beat on windows/doors/walls of open businesses). A half dozen riot police follow them behind, making sure this march stays peaceful.

Goni's given in to all the protester's demands, except his resignation. But he's still not declared a state of siege (which means martial law and a suspension of many civil liberties). I think he's waiting it out, waiting for the protesters to be forced to go home and accept winning all their demands. They're suffering right now, from lack of food and basic necessities. The people in the Zona Sur, for the most part, are enjoying days off from work, ice cream in the sun, and bike rides through empty streets.

I took pictures, once I get home and download them, I'll post a few here.

Posted by Miguel at 11:02 AM

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