Tarija (brief report)
02.23.2004The entrada in San Lorenzo was interesting. I'd never heard erque music before. It's a single-note horn (literally, it's just a hollowed out cow's horn) & small drum. That's it. But somehow people know how to dance & sing to it. Still, it was lovely to see Carnaval in a small, rural village. It was so honest & pure.
The entrada in Tarija was just amazing. I spent most of the night & morning saving seats for the other ex-pats. They arrived late, left early. No matter, I still enjoyed what's advertised as the most colorful & creative Carnaval in Bolivia.
The first part was the entrada de campesinos, which was much like in San Lorenzo — actually, many of the same villages participated. They looked so thrilled to come into town, in their Sunday best, dancing & showing off for the big city folk. Lines of chapacos on horses, erqueros, dancing lines of men in sandals & ponchos and women in their signature short polleras (skirts) w/ a red flower in one ear. Tarija prides itself in being very "andaluz" — and their traditions have more in common w/ Spanish than Andean culture.
The latter parts of the entrada just got more spectacular than the last. This isn't a folk entrada, it's a display of creative energies. Floats were thematically decorated & accompanied w/ dancers in amazing, silly, or just bizzarre costumes. Chines dragons & dancers, grown men in baby costumes (the milk company's float), lots of men in drag (including flamenco dancers), cartoon characters, monkeys, Arabian knights, and so much more.
Even the local military regiment got involved, w/ each company putting it's own show. And this wasn't a "military parade" — these very tough soldiers came dressed in drag, or w/ giant helmets that made them look like turtles, or like pirates, or like babies. I couldn't imagine any US military troop doing something like that.
After the ex-pats abruptly left, missing most of the best floats (about five hours worth), I gave their seats away to people nearby, trying desperately to see. Together, we had a great time, clapping, singing, dancing. There was even a tiny three-year-old girl that reminded me of Novali (my niece) who couldn't see, so I got to scoop her up on my shoulders to her great delight. We even ran out among the dancers when the paceņos came through in their morenada — the little girl wanted to hug the giant dancing white bear. It was great.
Oh, I took over 100 pictures. I'll sort through them & put them up once I'm back in La Paz. This afternoon's a giant party — and water fight (the mojada) — in the main square. Should be a blast.
Posted by Miguel at 12:27 PM
Comments
you what i find the most interesting about this... that a family would let you, a perfect stranger pick up their little girl and put her on your shoulders. that is a community and people who care about each. that is something i would rarely see in the US...
can't wait to see the pics!
Posted by: sam at February 23, 2004 01:10 PM
Yeah, these people are just great. So open. I'll post more in a few seconds.
Posted by: miguel at February 23, 2004 06:26 PM