Día del Mar

03.23.2004

Sometimes you're reminded that you need to have your digital camera w/ you at all times. Last night started the festivities for the Día del Mar, the national holiday commemorating the loss of Litoral province to Chile 125 years ago. I thought the military parades were this morning; they were last night.

Here's some pictures from El Diario:

Squads of cavalry lancers accompanied the remains of Eduardo Avaroa, the hero who led the defense civilian defense of the Topater bridge against invading Chilean forces. As well as the flag that flew at Calama & the Battle of the Alliance, where Peru & Bolivia were defeated. The cavalry looked dashing in their dark blue 19th century uniform & polished helmets. Following them, came ranks of the Batallon de Colorados, the presidential palace guard — who still wear the uniforms from the War of the Pacific. Bolivian political culture has a strong sea fixation.

Following the Colorados, came ranks of honor guards from the different services, applauded by the civilians looking on from along the sidewalks. There was the army, the navy (of course), the air force. Interestingly, no cheers or applause when the police marched by — people are still sore about last Wednesday. Massive cheers & applause for the firemen & the volunteers from SAR (Search & Rescue). Behind all this, came the hundreds of civilian municipal government workers, many of them yelling "Death to Chile!" and other such remarks.

Eventually, the procession made it to Plaza Avaroa, in Sopocachi. A navy honor guard carried the small casket w/ Avaroa's ashes to the place of honor beneath the Calama flag.

All through late morning & noon hours, schoolchildren marched through the streets along Plaza Avaroa in processions to commemorate 23 March. This is supposed to be the largest (and most expensive) Día del Mar celebration in decades. It really demonstrates the importance of the loss of Litoral to the Bolivian political psyche. And Mesa's popularity is bolstered — in large part — because he's taking a very nationalistic stance against Chile. But. I wonder: How much of this is bread & circus?

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UPDATE: If you want to know my opinion about the Bolivian sea issue, I've posted about it here, here, here, and here.

Posted by Miguel at 02:27 PM

Comments

Very colorful on the one hand...but a bit bizarre on the other. It would be as if we celebrated The Alamo with a big festival every year here in the States. Great pictures. And congratulations on the O Mundo site.

Posted by: Scott Barnard at March 23, 2004 04:16 PM

You sound a bit sarcastic on Bolivia's plight re the loss of the Litoral. If you are not in-touch with how us bollivians feel about this issue, watch out, you may be stepping on some very sensitive and powerful toes. Don't wear out your welcome.

Posted by: aldo at March 23, 2004 08:43 PM

Scott Barnard: don't compare The Alamo to Bolivia's territorial loss that permanently deprived the country of a seaport; it only shows your ignorance and insensitivity.

Posted by: aldo at March 23, 2004 08:50 PM

Aldo, there's no need to be insulting. It makes you sound like a zealot, someone not worth listening to.

I doubt Miguel would besmirch Bolivia. If he viewed the nation sarcastically, I doubt he would take the time to research it so thoroughly. Moreover, your statement sounds like a threat. I greatly appreciate his taking the time to write about your country. I've learned a great deal about it here.

As to Scott, I think you owe him an apology. I know neither of you, but think by your tone that you're a blowhard with precious little respect, and Scott was simply trying to analogize a Bolivian event, making it easier for people like myself to understand.

It's a shame that you're able to write in English. It's easy to be disruptive; any idiot can. However, it requires far more intelligence and sense to say something constructive.

Posted by: tom at March 23, 2004 09:32 PM

"Sometimes you're reminded that you need to have your digital camera w/ you at all times. "

Um.. I know I'm supposed to post some pictures of Spore... but there's something horribly wrong with my digicam! Gotta send it for repair. = (

But I've got pictures in the harddisk that I'll put up soon.

Posted by: Steph at March 23, 2004 10:49 PM

Aldo:

I love Bolivia very much; I've great hopes for the country. But remember that being "patriotic" doesn't mean being uncritical of anything. The issue of sea is, in my honest opinion, a non-issue. I've written about this before, you can do a search of my blog if you want.

Basically, the loss of the sea was 125 years ago, one of the many, many territorial disputes in Latin America. Also, the rallying around the sea issue's been primarily used by military dictatorships (like Banzer's) to build up popular support — much like the Malvinas issue under the Argentine junta.

Gaining the sea back won't solve Bolivia's problems. To think so is dangerously naive. The distance from factories in La Paz to Cobija won't change whether Cobija is Bolivian or Chilean. The transport costs will remain. A free trade agreement would do the same, which is what Chile's been offering all this time.

My biggest problem w/ the sea issue right now is that it's being manipulated by Mesa to bolster his public support. Mesa's doing everything Goni did, except harp on the sea issue. Goni was toppled; Mesa probably won't. This is a diplomatic dead end. Spending vast resources on a Día del Mar celebration (proudly declared the most expensive in decades) when the country's on the economic brink is foolish. I'd rather that money have paid for school items, or relief funds for the El Alto poor, or anything else.

Posted by: Miguel at March 24, 2004 01:42 PM

Thanks Miguel and my apologies if I came on too strong with my initial reaction. Yes, the sea-issue, if solved favorably to Bolivia today, will not end the country's problems. However, the loss of Bolivia's seacoast is a lot more than what practicality dictates; it's a matter of pride that has not been respected by Chile or the international community. That is what bothers us bolivians most. We want to be treated with respect, not to have our concerns belittled, diminished and ignored. That's all.

Posted by: Aldo at March 25, 2004 02:35 PM

Aldo:

No worries, I know this is a sensitive issue & wasn't surprised by your being upset. And I think you're right, it's more a pride issue than anything else. But. What bothers me about it, is that it damages the national psychology. We scapegoat Chile for all our problems, we blame everyone but ourselves when things go wrong. Then we go expecting the international community to A) treat us w/ respect while B) giving us massive economic aid.

Well, the A & B can't go hand in hand. If Bolivia wants to be a begger nation, a nation of children that throws tantrums when it doesn't get its way (COB marches?) w/o critically evaluating the situation — then how can it expect the international community to treat it w/ respect? We're a begger nation. Like those little potsino kids that pester you as you walk around La Paz, demanding limosnitas. Do you respect them? Pity, maybe. But respect?

What Bolivians need to do — and I realize it's difficult — is to critically evaluate the Guerra del Pacifico. Chile wasn't entirely to blame for that war; there's plenty of warmongering & blame to go around. Also, Bolivians need to realize that real conditions can't be changed — and learn to operate w/in that framework. Bolivia could export many things, and work towards development along many areas. But harping about past injustices won't help. We need to learn to do the best we can w/ what we have (and we do have a lot to offer the world).

Posted by: Miguel at March 25, 2004 02:42 PM

Tom: I am wondering why would it be a "shame" that I can write in English. It susprises you that a Bolivian can write in English? The word xenophobia comes to mind. I found your comments offensive and wrote you directly so as not to stray from the topic at hand.

Posted by: Aldo at March 25, 2004 02:54 PM

When Goni was president the first time around I told him that Bolivia should put its money where its mouth is and file a grievance (re Bolivia-Chile conflict) at every international organization possible. Have a trial on the merits. It would be great for Bolivia's pride, I said. But we tried that before the OAS, Goni said. (Right, we made a half-assed attempt which was thrown out on procedural grounds, Bolivia didn't file the right papers on time.) You are right Miguel, we like to whine, beg and have "manifestaciones" for everything under the sun. But we can't seem get out priorities straight.

Posted by: Aldo at March 25, 2004 03:23 PM

Aldo,

Xenophobia is a fear of foreigners. I'm not afraid; I only thought that your comments were harsh.

If you didn't intend to appear as rude as your comments appeared, then I will admit that my response was unreasonably harsh. However, frankly, your comments still, upon further inspection, despite your softened tone, seem offensive.

And of course I'm not surprised that a Bolivian can speak English. Many people from the countries I've visited have been well versed in English. You clearly have advanced training in, or a natural knack for the language.

I apologize to Miguel and Daniel - I would do well to practice what I preach.

Posted by: tom at March 25, 2004 08:59 PM

"It's a shame that you're able to write in English. .." (??)

Tom, while I don't think you meant to sound condescending, I'm puzzled why you brought language into the topic. It's a difference of opinion abt territorial disputes.

Clearly not a language problem.

Posted by: steph at March 26, 2004 09:14 AM

Steph,

I didn't suggest that it was a language problem. My statement reflected that I was offended (vicariously) by what he had written. I wasn't attacking his use of English; his English is good. I felt it was a shame that he was able to spew (what I perceived were) insults and threats, which is why I introduced language. My post wasn't directed towards the issue in the post; it was directed individually towards Aldo.

Also, Aldo and I exchanged a few emails, and I've concluded that my response was inappropriate. I should have waited for his further remarks to establish a longer baseline before responding the way I did. He pointed out that I don't understand Bolivians (true, true), and thoughtfully replied to my remarks. I misunderstood him.

Posted by: tom at March 26, 2004 09:48 AM