The Athens of the Americas

06.29.2004

Started my first day in Sucre w/ a super vitamínico blended juice from the market. Then headed out for a tour of the Casa de la Libertad, where the official declaration creating the country of Bolivia was signed. In the small world department, I was in a tour group made up mostly of students from Santa Cruz's Colegio Britanico — where my tío Adrian (who goes by Felipe Adrian) teaches literature.

But the tour was amazing. Just being inside the colonial buildings in Sucre's amazing. They're in much, much better shape than the ones in La Paz. At a later tour, I learned that many of the colonial buildings are painted every six months to keep them freshly white. This is a town that cares, actively, about its historical heritage.

From the Casa de la Libertad, I strolled around the city. Snapping an insane amount of pictures. Everything here's beautiful. There's the original government buildings (before the seat of power moved to La Paz). There's the Opera Theater (which is actually the size of an opera theater, unlike the one in La Paz). There's the Supreme Court buildings, facing the long & beautiful Parque Bolivar. I think Sucre's officially usurped the position of my favorite place in Bolivia. Sorry, Tarija.

After a light lunch, I headed up to the Recoleta, a Franciscan church w/ a mirrador (an "overlook") of the city. Beautiful. Then back down towards the center, where almost every other building's a historical landmark, carefully preserved.

I entered the Museo Textil Etnográfico (funded by ASUR). The first truly organized museum I've come across. Informative. Aesthetically pleasing. Well lit. It actually made me appreciate Andean textiles in a way I never thought I would. Too bad the weavings they've available for sale (as excellent as they are) cost at least Bs. 500 or more (some in the thousands).

I tried getting into a few churches, advertised by Lonely Planet as worth seeing. But most were closed. So I settled for gazing at them from the outside. But the San Felipe Neri Monastery (now an all-girls school run by Salesian nuns) was open. A simple, beautiful blend of mujédar & neo-classical styles. The roof was designed as for the Filipian monks to medidate w/ a view of the entire city.

I plan on taking it easy tonight. Probably some Italian for dinner, then some coffee & reading. I'm getting to know the quaint little cafés along Calle Nicolás Ortiz, which include Joy Ride Café (where I plan to see tomorrow afternoon's European Championship game).

There was mention of taking a day trip out to Potosí (2 1/2 hours by car, 3 1/2 hours by bus). But. Really. Why bother? Instead, I'll go out to La Glorieta (the Lyceo Militar) & the FANCESA Dinosaur Tracks tomorrow.

Posted by Miguel at 06:22 PM

Comments

Miguel--
Sucre is my favorite spot in all Bolivia. I'm envious as all get out that you are there and I'm, well, I'm elsewhere. A couple more days, and I predict you will be snared by Sucre's charms forever. That career in Kalamazoo will be a fading memory.
Dan

Posted by: Daniel Buck at June 29, 2004 08:15 PM

While this is a much needed break from the daily stress that is La Paz, I still look forward to Kalamazoo. But. If I were to live in Bolivia for whatever reason. It'd be in Sucre. I'm pretty sure of that. Or Tarija.

Posted by: miguel at June 29, 2004 10:24 PM

I have seen photos of the dinosaur tracks before and have always wanted to see them up close. Sounds like there's alot of other cool stuff to do around there as well. Have fun! --scott

Posted by: j.scott barnard at June 30, 2004 09:17 AM

It seems you are enjoying your stay in Sucre. I suggest you take the trip to Potosi, the city is beautiful amidst the harsh wether, there are many interesting places all at walking distance (Casa de la Moneda, churches, etc...). Cerro Rico is impressive and you can visit a mine.

Posted by: Daniel at June 30, 2004 10:52 AM

Yea, I agree with Daniel, go to Potosi, the city is full of beautiful building, people and history. I remember all the churches always being close! :)

Posted by: Andres Centellas at June 30, 2004 01:52 PM

Sorry, no Potosí trip for me. Not enough time, and I fly out to Cochabamba tomorrow morning. Some other time, eh? But, yeah, Sucre's amazing.

Posted by: miguel at June 30, 2004 06:04 PM