The Holy See

01.05.2005

I only spent a few hours in The Vatican (26 December), though it's technically a completely different country, independent from Italy (and the European Union). It was a grey, rainy Sunday morning. And though the last Sunday of every month offers free entry to the Vatican Museums (including the Sistine Chapel), that day they were closed. No matter; we entered the through Piazza San Pietro, and enjoyed a post-Christmas Sunday mass in St. Peter's Basilica.

We beat the crowds, and enjoyed a quiet stroll around Piazza San Pietro, looking up at the 140 Saints that look down upon all visitors. Then we entered the Basilica itself, after going through a security checkpoint fully equiped w/ metal detectors. From there, we entered a hushed church, richly decorated w/ Renaissance art (mostly, by Michelangelo).

Looked around briefly, then headed forward to the pews, were only a hundred people were joined together for mass. It's amazing how, as ornate as St. Peter's is, the mass still followed (verbatim) the simple, ritual format I've heard at any chapel, no matter how humble. And, just like that, I was lining up, heading to St. Peter's altar, to say "Amen" and take the consecrated host. Just like anywhere else. It was the moment's absolute simplicity of the ritual that most impressed me.

Only after mass, did we join the slowly increasing throngs of tourists for a walk around. The interesting thing about St. Peter's is that you never know where to look. Every possible inch is decorated w/ brilliant frescos or marble sculptures. And each w/ some theological or historical significance.

We then walked down into the papal tombs, built around the heart of St. Peter's Basilica. The tomb of St. Peter, a small private chapel housing the last remains of the rough & tumble fisherman from Galilee.

Then up the 320 steps to the roof, where we caught a panoramic view of a great part of downtown Rome (which, btw, has no skycrapers). And down into the basilica itself — a daunting sight for someone w/ mild acrophobia. But we also got to walk on the roof of the basilica itself, among the statues of Jesus & his Apostles that adorn the roof.

By the time we headed out, the crowds were gathering outside, lining up to enter through the security checkpoint. We headed back out into Rome. It was a brief visit, but I'm glad we arrived w/ so few people, it almost felt like we'd just stumbled into any church in Italy. What most impressed me about the whole experience — in hindsight — was that even as I admired the art & history, the experience was intimate.

Posted by Miguel at 08:41 PM

Comments

Holy purty.

Posted by: tom at January 7, 2005 03:25 AM